Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Pots and pans
Finally, here are some photos from the past few months. Enjoy.
http://picasaweb.google.com/eringurak
Saturday, May 10, 2008
Thoughts from a foreigner
Since I last wrote we finished our classes and the final exams. SIT keeps us plenty busy, though, as now we’re commencing our independent study projects. I’m researching the role of co-ops in the lives of the cartoneros. After the 01 economic crisis, unemployment surged and if your education level was low, then there was little chance for a job. Thousands of people turned to the streets – literally – and started sifting through garbage bags at night looking for paper, glass, plastic: basically, anything recyclable. These people are the cartoneros: they work at night, sometimes alone or with their family, and they live on the outskirts of the city, far away from the glamour of our neighborhoods. In 02 the city government legalized the work of the cartoneros and started funding cooperatives around the city. I’m interested in the relationship between the government and the co-ops: why they legalized the work, joint community projects. I have contacts at some of the co-ops and in the government….to interview. Dun dun dun. Our expected result from this month is a 20+ page essay incorporating research and interviews. Like anything, it depends on the effort you put into it; I’m not going to kill myself with work but I want to write something decent.
On the phone someone asked how
I love how everything is condensed here. People are friendly and help with directions and ask where I’m from and say, “My daughter lives in
Plus we’ve seen significant problems in each country and there are just thousands of problems and situations bigger than myself. The world is a complicated place. I’m not worldlier than anyone else but I’m more conscious of the world’s problems and the concept of being a foreigner. It is frustrating and tiring but it can be a rewarding and fascinating experience. I am glad that I came to
Sunday, April 20, 2008
On the plus side, I don't have dengue fever
I spent so many hours on buses during the past two weeks but the lack of sleep and innumerable bug bites were worth the wait. Two weeks ago we rode for 20 hours from BA to the southern Brasilian city of
On Friday evening we took an overnight bus to
The group split after and my half took the 24 hour bus to
Saturday, March 29, 2008
"Eat, eat, eat!"
Yesterday I returned from our rural homestay in Wheelwright, a town four hours northwest of
Incidentally, this was the perfect time to visit the campo. The government recently raised the export tax much to the dismay of the nation’s farmers who found their income decreasing. This spurred protests in various cities including
In other news, this week marked the month anniversary of my arrival in
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Like Vietnam, but not really
Thank you Easter, for giving us a four-day weekend without any classes. Yesterday Annie, Merritt, and I went to El Tigre, a town an hour north of BA. We were under whelmed by the Puerto de Frutos – thinking that there would be more fruit and less crafts – but the town was charming. We then took a long wooden boat around the delta of the
Tomorrow our group leaves for a week-long excursion to the northern city of
Sunday, March 16, 2008
Cobblestone and jazz
My last update didn’t include my delicious and inexpensive meal on Saturday night. Annie and I followed our guidebooks to a packed Peruvian restaurant. I had the best ceviche of my life (easy, given that I live in a landlocked state) along with a pisco sour, a traditional Peruvian drink made with eggs. My night continued at a few clubs with friends and, like a true porteño, I arrived home at 8am. Needless to say I was tired for the rest of the week.
Our SIT classes this week focused on the economic history of
On Wednesday I had dinner with my friend Hannah from
On Friday night my host dad played a solo saxophone set at a jazz club near our house. The club was called Kafka and it housed a lot of abstract art. Monica, Annie, and I shared a bottle of wine throughout the night. Monica and I also sang along with the jazz songs that Rafael was playing. It was nice to spend the evening with my family. They are out of town again this weekend so I am enjoying some alone time and trying to find the nearest Laundromat. Today Annie and I went to the barrio of San Telmo. It is ridiculously ancient and beautiful with cobblestone streets. Every Sunday there is a street fair so we perused the sidewalks for awhile.
I’d also like to wish my mom a HAPPY BIRTHDAY! Have a fantastic and relaxing day! Sorry I didn’t send a card but I’ll buy you a thoughtful and practical gift from
I’m off to finish some homework. Take care everyone!
Saturday, March 8, 2008
¿Una semana? ¿En serio?
Our classes began on Tuesday with our first seminars in field study and Spanish. The purpose of the field study seminar is to prepare us for our independent study project (ISP) which we conduct during May. I have a few ideas: comparative study of the governments in the Southern Cone, social integration of Jews in BA, conflicts between indigenous cultures and the government, disparities in economic development… I really have no idea what I’m doing. The language seminars are divided into three classes based on speaking ability. I was placed in a lower class but I think it had to do with my interview. My biggest problem is comprehension. I’ve only experienced classroom Spanish and this is my first time with “real-life” Spanish. The accent is still difficult but I am slowly remembering the language.
We also had a week of lectures about the political history of
Every morning I take the Subte (subway) to IDES. Sometimes I leave my house early so I can walk around the neighborhood before class. The city is quiet at 9am and doesn’t awake until mid-morning. Sometimes my curiosity can get me a tad lost but the people of
Along with exploring the city on foot, I’m indulging in new foods. Monica feeds me a healthy diet of vegetables, rice, and fish. She doesn’t cook much meat which is unusual for an Argentine family. Since she and Rafael are Italian, we eat lots of pasta. Her lasagna is much different from Debbie’s, though; she includes much more cheese and spinach and doesn’t use meat. Breakfast is small and I usually have café con leche (coffee with milk) and toast with cheese and fig marmalade spreads. SIT gives us a stipend of 20 pesos/day for lunch so we venture off to find new restaurants to try. There is a good Arabic place with shwarma and falafel as well as parrillas that serve carne asado, the beef of
There are a surprising number of
Take care and I miss you all! Keep me updated with the goings-on of the States! Con amor, Erin
Sunday, March 2, 2008
Mi vida ahora
Where do I begin? I have been in this country for less than week and feel that my time has been so condensed. Chronology should be the easiest format to follow.
I departed
We started to retrieve our luggage and I waited…and waited…until there was no more luggage from our flight and my sole bag was MIA. Panicked, I was directed the LAN baggage counter. I think the attendant could tell that I was frightened by my mix of English and broken Spanish. Since I didn’t have a phone number or address to give her, she told me that my luggage would arrive that afternoon and I should call the following number. I left the baggage claim feeling defeated even though I knew that my luggage would come soon. As soon as I left customs I heard someone call my name. It was Annie! For those who don’t know, my close friend and former roommate Annie applied to the same program as me. She studied in
The first thing I noticed about
The bus stopped at our destination for orientation. It was Las Clavelinas, a sort-of retreat center for members of the gastronomic union of BA. There were soccer fields, a pool and gym, restaurant, and hotel rooms. I roomed with Annie and Merritt, who has been abroad multiple times and seemed very relaxed. The room had one bedroom with two beds, a small bathroom, an entry with another bed, and no air conditioning. Welcome to
The next day was similar to Wednesday. We had seminars about security and safety and interviews with the program director. My luggage arrived safely during my interview which was a BIG relief. One of the classes in my program is Intensive Spanish so we had short interviews with the Spanish professors to determine our comprehension levels. Of course I was nervous during mine and I think I talked about my sorority and involvement in choir. During the afternoon I left the grounds and walked to a local pharmacy a few blocks down. I had my first taste of
Friday was Judgment Day. We would get information about our host families and move in with them in the evening! Adriana, the home stay coordinator, conducted a seminar about home stay expectations then presented info about our families. I would be living with Rafael and Monica, an older couple. My home was not far from IDES, the graduate institute where our classes are held. We soon left by bus for Buenos Aires. The freeways were similar to the States except everyone drives crazily and many people did double-takes at seeing a bus full of Americans on the road. We arrived in
Rafael is a fascinating fellow. I introduced myself and nervously began speaking poor Spanish because I wanted to impress him. “Take it easy,” he kept telling me while eating the sandwiches provided by the IDES staff. He is tall and lean and wears rimless glasses. Rafael is a saxophonist who studied at the Berklee School of Music in
I feel like I could write forever about my home. The living room has dozens of books and jazz and bossanova CDs. Rafael played me the
Though I was happy to be at my new home, I felt completely overwhelmed with everything. I couldn’t understand most of what Rafael and Monica said to me and just kept nodding and saying “yes.” I felt better at dinner when we talked about American politics (a popular topic in
Saturday felt better. In the morning Rafael and I engaged in a passionate debate about the perception of the
Well….it took us awhile to figure out how to get there. The bus system in BA is out of control. There are hundreds of buses and a very, VERY confusing map for each bus. You could live your whole life here and never figure it out. We found the right bus after some searching and finally (!) found IDES. There was no group in sight, however, so we called our friend Erin. She also attends
This is my third day in
Saturday, March 1, 2008
Estoy aqui
Monday, February 25, 2008
Tomorrow, tomorrow
I have been home since the end of December making this the longest winter break on record. In retrospect my time was well spent: I worked for 6 weeks, saw Obama speak twice (and SHOOK HIS HAND...it was magical), and saw loads of family and friends.
It is 9:50pm and I still need to pack my suitcase. My flight leaves from Minneapolis at 7am which means I have an ungodly early wake-up hour. I arrive in Miami at 11:30am and wait to check in for my next flight until....6pm. Oh joy! The group flight to Argentina is at 9pm and then I (finally) arrive in BA at 9am! There is a four-hour time difference between Minnesota and Argentina which equates to an 8-hour flight tomorrow night. All of these numbers are making my head spin.
I know this semester will be challenging and difficult but I could not be more excited to go. When I come back to the States I want to say that I regret nothing from my travels. I want to meet locals, experience city nightlife, go to soccer (fútbol) matches, travel to wine country, fall in love with the infamously delicious beef, work my tail off with my seminars, and enjoy every minute of life in Argentina. Take care everyone and I'll update when I can! Hasta luego, Erin